Uruguay’s Carnival.

February 15th, 2011

Candombe and cultural heritage.

Photo: Las Llamadas. Every Sunday and on many holidays, the ‘llamadas de tambores de candombe’ or candombe drum calls enliven the Sur, Palermo and Cordón districts in southern Montevideo, Uruguay, home to a population of African descent. By Martin Herrera.

The Uruguayan carnival is the longest in the world, and probably the most complex in the sense that there are many different aspects to it. At it’s core is the Candombe, a drum based African descent rhythm which is recognized by the UNESCO as Intangible Heritage of Humanity and it was created by the slaves that arrived in Uruguay over two hundred years ago. Originally it was only played by African descents, in their communal living houses. When these houses got dismantled, African descents took Candombe with them to different parts of the city, where it was influenced and adopted by European descents.

Throughout the year, the Candombe is played informally; every Sunday groups of friends get together to play in the streets. The practice of the candombe begins around communal fires as people gather to tune their drums and socialize before beginning their march. Once underway, the drum-call parade is led by the most prestigious members, from families recognized by the community for their drumming for many generations; other drummers are organized behind them in rows, and informal participants, dancers and spectators march alongside or watch from balconies. The beat of the largest and deepest drum, the piano, is distinctive to each neighbourhood, so that the organized call and response structure of the candombe both unites the districts and signals their individual identities.

During Carnival, which goes from December to March (that’s right, longest carnival in the world), these gatherings become more formal and reach their peak when these neighborhood groups, now organized as Comparsas, parade, fully dressed at the Desfile de Llamadas, or simply Llamadas. Hundreds of thousands crowd the narrow streets of Montevideo and we will get you exclusive access to the heart of it with. Our press pass will allow you to be inside the Desfile, where you will be able to shoot both the Comparsa members and the cheering crowd. In addition, we will follow a Comparsa set-up and preparation in their neighborhood and then join them as they gain the streets.

Candombe is one of Uruguay’s most fascinating, least known features. Transmitted within families of African descent, the candombe is recognized as an expression of resistance as well as a Uruguayan musical celebration and collective social practice deeply interwoven in the daily life of these neighbourhoods. It is also a symbol and manifestation of the memory of the community, drawing former residents back on special days to the historical nucleus of candombe. 

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One Response to “Uruguay’s Carnival.”

  1. [...] Oh ya, there’s that. This particular part is called Candombe, which you can read about here. If that isn’t enough, how about a video about this little event. And people, these images [...]

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